Day 11 - The Marcelino & the Redhead

And just who is this bright, shiny, happy person sitting here in a cafe, under the shade of the huge church tower? Yes, I think it might actually be me, although I’m too scared to examine any closer!

This is me having a good day. A very good day in fact, in stark contrast to the very bad days that have preceded it. I will be the first to say it; my husband and daughter are wise ones indeed.They gave me the encouragement I needed to stick it out, and not go hot tailing back home, and for today, at least, it has paid out.

I woke before 7am, and got ready to walk, safe in the knowledge it was under 8 miles, so no need to get up at the crack of stupid o’clock to walk solo in the dark. I began to walk at about 7.45, a much more respectable time, and followed the well placed markers out of Logrono.

The path was my sort of path, once it left the streets filled with harassed office workers. It became a wide path filled with walkers, joggers and cyclists. Even better, it was a flat path; the Holy Grail of paths. We wound our way through a huge park, with a massive lake. Knowing I had less miles to do meant I could take my time and actually look around me.I sat on a bench to watch the squirrels play.I examined the strange leaves on a tree that looked like bananas, and watched the massive fish in the lake.

In the park I came across a donativo hut with supplies for pilgrims. It is the work of the infamous Marcelino de Lobato de Castrillo. He is a “celebrity” veteran pilgrim who has been walking the Way since 1972, when he slept in hay stacks and fields as there were no albergues. He walks the Way dressed in the traditional clothes of the concheiro ( staff, tunic, bag, horn, cape and rosary). He was dressed more normally today, although his Gandalf beard hinted at his colourful style, and photos of him walking surrounded his hut. We had an intense conversation, although I speak no Spanish and he speaks no English. The only word I could decipher was amore, which is love, and I think that was the most important one. He gave me a huge hug, and a big kiss, and then another squeeze for luck. I love the photo of us together. It is one that will make me smile every time I look at it.

Once out of the park there was a moderate rise, and it started to get hotter, with little shade. I passed a huge link fence filled with crosses made from twigs. I was able to look back across the lake at the high rises of Logrono.

Before too long I could see Navarrete. It is a hilltop town. Of course it is! What’s better than going up at the end of your journey, no matter how short the miles are. The big church dominates the town. I was looking forward to seeing inside, but first I had to walk past many vineyards, the vines heavy with dark grapes. I couldn’t resist taking a bunch. They were so sweet. I don’t like the wine, just give it to me neat. Soon I had a sticky chin and sticky hands.

I climbed up into the town, heading for the church. On the way in I passed the ruins of the 12th century Hospitale San Juan de Acre, the medieval pilgrim hospital. I carried on going up towards the church. Right next to it was a fabulous little cafe. I made a beeline for it, ready for a drink. It was like going to a school reunion. I sat with Debs and Maria who were in my dorm in Orisson the very first night. Then Charles and Mimi came in. Then, I jumped up to hug lovely Luna, who had walked in with Laurel and Anne. They had noticed my name in the guest book at the marcelino’s hut and had asked him when I had gone through.He had no idea who “Lucy, Wales” was, but was able to answer them excitedly when they asked about the “red head!”

It was so lovely to catch up with people.This is the bit I am loving the most about the Camino; the shared experiences that bond us.

The others left for the next village, but I had a room booked in Navarrete as I wanted to see the church. The Inglesis de Nuestra Senira de La Asuncion is very special. It is beautiful inside. It can, at first appear dark and uninspiring. But, there is a trick! Pop an euro in a box and the altar piece is illuminated. Wow, just wow. When it lit up, another female pilgrim looked open mouthed over to me, and we both just held out our arms in disbelief. The altar piece is huge, and gold. Very very gold. Ornate beyond words. You could spend a week looking at it, and still notice a new cherub, a new statue. It is very hard to describe the impact of it.

I headed off to fine my albergue and did my now ritual of showering, washing clothes and napping. I have headed out to find something to eat, but it is too early for the Spaniards! I have managed to eat a bit of pizza today, which is. A big improvement on yesterday, where I only ate a croissant all day. I am starting to feel a bit hungry again, which is great news. Can’t believe I am saying that!

So, all in all, a very good day! Being more rested from taking a break, and doing less mileage meant I have had more time to see, more time to explore, more time to chat and more time to notice. A huge improvement on simply laying on my bed exhausted, after seeing nothing because I walked in the dark. I have. Or mileage to do tomorrow, followed by a bus journey, so I met start off a bit earlier, but all shall be well, all shall be well, and all matter of things shall be well.

Oh, and I must thank you for all the lovely comments posted on my blog. I made the promise to be honest and real, and I am glad that people seem to appreciate it. I love reading them all, they make my day!