Day 12 - A Day to Find Patience

Today has been one of those frustrating days where plans had to be changed. My intention had been to walk from Navarrete to Najera and get a bus from Najera to Burgos.

I have been having part of my bag transferred each day to lighten the load, so I still carry my big rucksack, with my sandals, feet kit, snacks, base layers, rain gear, first aid etc, but send my clothes, sleeping kit & toiletries ahead. Before I started the Camino I had no intention of doing this, but the reality of carrying my heavy pack up the hill to the pilgrims office in St Jean on the first day, and the incredulity of the rest of my dorm mates that I was actually going to carry it all, resulted in me sending ahead. To be honest I had no idea that this was such a popular thing as it is. I would say the vast majority of people I know on the Camino send all or some of their pack ahead. It has certainly saved my back. Anyway, when I messaged my usual guy to arrange my small pack be taken to Burgos, he replied with the fact that this would cost 20E instead of the usual 5E, and couldn’t be done until Friday. Wow, that was something I hadn’t foreseen!

I made the decision not to carry my full pack for the 11 miles, and decided I would get a bus to Najera to get another bus to Burgos. The problem with this was that the bus was not until mid day, and I had to be out of my room at 8am!

I went to my favourite cafe, with my full, heavy pack, and got a drink. I wondered how I could spin this out for 5 hours. I wandered to the nearby tourist information place nearby to see if they could help me get a taxi.They opened at 9.30. I Google mapped taxis and followed the directions, to find no taxis. I waited outside the tourist info place till gone 9.30, no one appeared. Time was passing very slowly!!

I spotted a taxi, and ran after it. The driver called another one for me, and 25E later I was in Najera. I would have spent that money in the cafe anyway in 5 hours! This was better for my diet!

I got out of the taxi but he bus station and deciphered the time tables using Google translate. I spotted another female pilgrim sitting on a bench and asked if she spoke English. Relieved she called me over. We had pretty much identical stories of heat exhaust, no sleep, no eating etc, but she had a pulled muscle as well, and was bussing ahead to Burgos. We went for a coffee nearby, and then returned to our bench to await our bus. Today has involved a lot of waiting.

The bus came at 12.15, and we paid a ridiculous 6E to be driven 2 hours; so cheap. We were soon in Burgos, and I made my way to my hotel. I showered and washed my clothes, then had a siesta before going out to visit the incredible cathedral and have pizza.

I have another full day here tomorrow to explore this bustling city, and to work out my plans for next week. So far this evening I have booked 4 nights accommodation for after Leon. It is frightening how difficult this is; how many places are booked up, and how expensive the rooms are. I think the fact that this is the busiest the Camino has ever been is making a real difference in finding accommodation. It’s quite stressful.

My photos won’t upload tonight, so I’ll add them to tomorrow’s blog.