By this Author: CariadJohn

So, I’ve got a bit to catch up on before I finish this blog.

I’ll start by saying that I’ve made the decision to end my Camino and go home early. The bus to Madrid is booked for tomorrow, with an evening flight to Bristol.

Now that bombshell is over, let me rewind the last couple of days, and the thoughts behind that decision.

Firstly Leon! What can I say? Leon is big and busy. I arrived on a Saturday afternoon and the city was bustling. I’d booked a nice hotel as I was there for three nights, as I wanted to watch the Queen’s funeral on Monday, and couldn’t get a seat on the bus from Burgos to Leon on the Sunday night. My hotel was 0.16 of a mile from the cathedral. It’s certainly an impressive cathedral, probably the biggest I’ve seen. You literally turn a busy street corner, and there she us, in all her glory. I didn’t go in, and was just happy to walk around the outside.

In all honesty, I found Leon to be quite intimidating, especially at the weekend. I was happy to walk through the back streets and find a quiet square with a view of a lovely building, and order pizza there. I did this Sunday and Monday. Hey, if it ain’t broke….

I watched the funeral off my iPad in my hotel room. It was a part of history I couldn’t miss. Nobody does pomp and ceremony like the Brits, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. A fitting send off to a British icon.

I wasn’t sorry to leave Leon yesterday and walked the mile to the central bus station at 7.15am where I was catching the Alsa bus to Hospital de Orbigo to start my walk. I was ready to start walking again, and chatted with other pilgrims on the bus. I managed to get off at the right stop, and received my rucksack from the hold. I then had to use the Camino Ninja app to find my way back onto the Camino.

Soon I was back walking, and feeling happy. In fact, this was one of my happiest days on the Camino, which might make my decision even more curious. I had been feeling isolated in Leon, and sad at leaving my friends behind, so was open to chatting and meeting new people.

The Camino provided again, and gave me a beautiful Camino Angel from Sydney, named Marissa. Marissa and I got chatting, and chatted the whole journey. We had so much in common it was unbelievable. We stopped together at a fabulous Camino donativo oasis run by another gorgeous Camino Angel called David. He has set up a fabulous retreat under some trees, where he has everything you could possibly need. He didn’t stop the whole time we were there. He was boiling eggs, cutting mangoes, cutting melons, making coffee, squeezing limes for fresh juice. He says it does it ‘to serve God’. He even had a massage bed and hammocks set up. It had such a good vibe, I didn’t want to leave.

Even the trail was fabulous today. It was a beautiful winding path through amazing countryside. A stunning day, where everything was exactly as it should be.

Apart from one thing.

The heat. It reached 38 degrees again, and there was little shade. My legs were strong, I could do the 12 miles no problem (apart from slight aching at the end), but I could feel my body hurtling back into heat exhaustion. I couldn’t eat again. I had spots in front of my eyes, ringing in my ears. I felt faint and dizzy. Here we go again.

Marissa and I stopped as soon as we found a bar ( an Irish bar!) in Astorga, and I had a few mouthfuls of pasta, but couldn’t eat much. My mind was whirling. We set off for our respective hotels, with a tentative plan to meet up later.

By the time I got to the hotel I knew what I had to do, I simply can’t face walking in that heat for the next 17 days or so. I am not prepared to get up and walk in the dark solo for hours just to avoid the heat, when it means also avoiding the scenery and people I want to experience.

I rang Lyn and told him. He was understanding. I had not made a knee jerk reaction like I wanted to do last time, this was a week later; a week where I’d rested and hoped the temperature would drop, and it hadn’t.

I’m someone that tries to avoid the heat. At a push I can be ok on a sun lounger next to a cold pool, where I can hop in every minute, then back out, whilst sipping a cocktail, but walking up hills for miles at a time, with a rucksack on my back was never in my plans. I actively try to avoid the heat in the summer; my last three summer holidays have been in Scotland and Norway to give you some idea of the lengths I go to! Naively I though September would be much cooler than it is. Many people are managing fine, so I wouldn’t want to put people off. This is just my experience and my reaction to it. I just cannot go though the rest of my time here being sick and unwell.I was convinced the rest would help me, but unfortunately the heat won. I had booked up my accommodation for the last 17 days, all the way to Santiago. I had to cancel every booking last night. I just can’t be as ill again as I have been, it’s not worth it, and not worth risking my health for.

Maybe strangely I don’t feel sad or upset about it. My last walking day was almost perfect. I made a new friend, Marissa and I had dinner together and chatted non stop. We have swapped numbers, and I know we will keep in touch.

Astorga is beautiful, my favourite place on the Camino by far. I’m more than happy to spend my last day here. It has a beautiful Gaudi Palace that I have been around today, an incredible cathedral, and just a relaxed vibe that I love. Last night I sat in front of the cathedral having a drink, and watched the old people who just came out to chat on benches in front of the incredible buildings. Oh, and it’s a walled city filled with chocolate. What’s not to love?

Obviously when I started off I wanted to walk the Camino, the whole 500 miles of it. I didn’t anticipate sending stuff on ahead, or catching buses. I had to readjust my expectations quickly, and that’s fine, that’s Camino life. When I dig deeper though, I’m not sure it was always about standing in front of the cathedral in Santiago, and getting a piece of paper to validate what I’d achieved. It was always about the journey, the experience, and more importantly, my journey, my experience. And I’ve definitely had an experience. When I think back to the nerves and tears getting on the train all those days ago, to where I am today it feels like a lifetime apart.

I have seen the most incredible scenery. From the valleys and mountains of the Pyrenees from days 1 and 2, where the cowls clanged their bells as I looked over low lying cloud for miles and miles, to the vineyards, olive groves and corn fields if more recent days. All incredible. From big busy cities, to tiny sleepy towns like Los Arcos and Villamayor de Montjardin. From the huge cathedrals of Leon, Burgos and Astorga to the church in tiny Navarette which was filled with gold. All memories I won’t forget.

The places I’ve stayed; from lovely hotels with the bliss of my own bathroom, to dormitories where I shared with up to 50 people. From quiet bliss to a raging fiesta outside all night. From sleeping in comfy beds with crisp sheets to sleeping on a stone floor.

Most of all, the people I’ve met. The people I met randomly due to being chance dorm mates, albergue mates or bunk mates. From the people whose faces I kept seeing until it felt rude not to speak. From the people I swapped smiles with to the people I swapped numbers with. Joan, Alun, David, Luna, Laurel, Marissa, Julie & Dom, you have all played a huge part in my Camino, and I will never forget you. I will be cheering you on the rest of your way. You were all sent for a purpose, and were there exactly when I needed you. Thank you.

As for me? No regrets. I’m proud of me. I had the balls to start it, even if I didn’t get to finish it. When I become Queen of the world I will make it 18 degrees every day, and maybe come back and finish it then. Otherwise I’ve done incredible things. I hauled my sorry heat exhausted ass up the Pyrenees on Day 1, puking every 10 steps and collapsing until I dragged myself up to walk and puke some more, only to surprise myself by blasting the next day as it was windier and cooler. I’ve spent lonely time by myself in impersonal cities. I’ve walked for hours by myself in the pitch dark with a head torch, scared. I’ve had to organise myself and stay organised. I’ve had to navigate myself. I’ve had to make decisions. I’ve had to cope with a different language and master different transport options. I’ve had to go out of my comfort zone many many times. I’ve definitely made memories, and that is what it was all about.

So now tomorrow I’m on a bus for 6 hours to Madrid, then I have 6 hours in the airport then I fly home to my family. For all of you Camino friends still out there, Buen Camino and Ultreia. For all of you thinking of doing the Camino, just start, worry about the rest later. And for all of you who supported me, encouraged me, followed me, messaged me and replied to me, thank you. Diolch.

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Day 13 and 14

So, how to quantify 2 days in Burgos? It’s certainly a beautiful city, the cathedral is simply huge! I went to visit it on Saturday afternoon, before I left. It only cost 5E as I was a Pelegrína, so I wandered around inside.

I find cathedrals almost overwhelming. There is so much to see; it’s almost an assault on the senses. Everywhere you look there are different textures, carvings, materials. I didn’t know whether to look up or down. The side chapels were all so different, some laden in gold, others somber in dark carved wood. You had the hush of centuries past, but the bustle of present day chatter. So much craftsmanship, could we recreate something like this today?

Apart from touring the cathedral, my time in Burgos has been spent mainly wandering. I find cities can be very isolating when you are on your own. Your solitude seems to be highlighted by family groups, couples, groups of friends enjoying the sunshine together. I sat for ages in the sun on the cathedral steps, watching a San Miguel music festival that was going on right in front of the cathedral. Several rock bands played, so I people watched the crowds; the dad dancers rocking out with their plastic cups, the children finding their own amusement by doing back flips down the stone cathedral steps. I was fascinated watching a wedding go by, looking at all the best outfits. It seemed I had hours to fill and time stretched like an elastic band.

I was certainly feeling lonely, and missing home. This was never part of the plan, not walking and being with other people.To avoid the heat and the meseta I seem to have ended up with a 3 stop city break in the middle. This has certainly allowed me to rest, but now I worry that I don’t know how to walk anymore! I’m a bit worried about starting again on Tuesday and having to hit 20k walking days with no rest until Santiago. As ever, I am a mess of emotions.

It doesn’t help that I have left all my friends behind. In saying that, I managed to bump into David in Burgos who showed me the best place to buy churros and then bought me some! And then the next day I had a text from Dom & Julie to say they had just reached Burgos, so we met for a drink before I had to leave for the bus, and they force fed me gin! Again, both meet ups came at exactly the right time, just as I needed someone with a friendly face, they were there. Almost like genies. I have been very privileged to get to know Julie & Dom and know some of their back story and why they are walking the Camino, and the good that will come out of it. I know we will keep in touch, they are an incredible couple.

The coincidences kept coming as I got to the bus station. As I waited for the bus I chatted with an American lady I had met a few days ago, and a British couple who have been walking for months, that are friends of Camino friends I have made.

I now have to make the effort to be open to making new friends on the way. It will get a lot busier the further west I go. The town of Sarria is a popular starting point, as it is 100km from there to Santiago, and this is the minimum distance you need to do to get your Compostela. I have heard there can be a lot of tour groups, school trips etc, but all shall be well.

So, I write this on Sunday, sat in my hotel in Leon. Time to get out and see another beautiful city.

Current status? Sat on a bench in a sunny park in Burgos. It’s exactly 2 weeks sinceI left home on my adventure, and I thought it might be time to do some reflecting. I’m really aware that a lot of future pilgrims are reading my blog; I know this through all the lovely comments on my blog, replies on Facebook posts and private messaging, so I thought some general advice, tips, ramblings etc might be useful. They are in no particular order, and are simply observations from my own perspective and experiences. Others may disagree, and that is fine. All shall be well. I’ll post a general daily update later, as I know not everyone will be interested in this.

Firstly, and most importantly, let go of expectations. Forget any books you have read, films you have seen, people you have spoken to, even blogs you have read! Your experience will be unique and will be shaped by so many factors out of your control. I didn’t expect to take buses or forward some weight from my pack, but I did and I’m glad I did. I needed to, and there’s no shame in that. If you hang on to someone else’s views as to how a pilgrimage should take shape you will suffer.

Train. Train. Train. Walk as much as you can. Walk up hills. Walk with your pack. Walk multiple miles on multiple days with tired legs. Walk on days when you have had no sleep. Walk in all types of weather.

Do not underestimate the first 2/3 days. This is aimed at the people reading who may be like me, overweight, unfit, fearful, unused to physical challenges. Stop at Orisson or Borda on day 1. You will need to book ahead for accommodation. If the accommodation is full then book 2 nights in St Jean, walk to Orisson then get a taxi back down. Take a taxi back up the next day to the same point and start walking again. Consider starting after that point. You can start anywhere. Some people start at Roncessavelles to avoid the climb up. Others start at Pamplona, Leon, Sarria….choose what suits you.

Do not underestimate how busy the Camino is at the moment. The bed challenge is real. I booked ahead the first few days and was glad I had, especially when I got to one albergue where people had to wait until 3 o’clock to find if they had a bed. The unsuccessful ones had a choice of a mattress outside the church or to walk on to the next village in the hope of a bed there. This would have scared me. I like to know where I am sleeping.

Do not underestimate the weather. I was totally unprepared for how much the heat would affect me. I had heat exhaustion which gave me problems with energy, sleeping, eating, staying hydrated etc. It nearly resulted in me going home early. My umbrella came in handy as a sunscreen.

Consider the practicalities of dorm life. Consider the fact you may end up with a top bunk. Consider the snorers; ear plugs are essential but didn’t help me and I ended up leaving my bed to sleep on the floor of other rooms in 2 instances. Consider an eye mask. If your finances allow it consider private rooms, even occasionally, to give yourself the chance of a good sleep. Also be aware of practicalities of changing in a mixed sex dorm. I took a lightweight silk kaftan which meant I could pop in on after the shower, and put my underwear on easily underneath it.

Consider the time of year. I started walking at 5.15am some mornings and needed my good head torch. Be aware of the time the sun rises and sets.

I know some of you are worried about not making friends. This is something I found easy. It helps to be open to conversation and to initiate it. I found it easier in dorms, and small villages, it’s far easier to feel isolated in big cities, but I still bumped into people I knew in Pamplona, Logrono and Burgos. Don’t be afraid of just chatting to anyone, regardless of age, sex, nationality; if they have a rucksack then you have something in common. Get involved on Facebook Camino groups, and find people who are walking the route the same time as you. I have had people come onto me that recognise me from Facebook.

Understand that these friendships and connections may well be transitory. I walked for day 2 and 3 with Luka, and have not seen him since. Similarly I bumped into Debs and Maria on day 10 when I hadn’t seen them since Orisson on day 1. I thought I had left my friends behind by taking the bus ahead, but bumped into David today in Burgos. You never know when it will be the last time you will see someone so make the most of every friendship and conversation, and swap numbers. I love getting texts from Julie & Dom, and chat to Alun most days.

Public transport is really cheap in Spain. I paid 6E for a 2 hour journey. Rucksacks (Mochilas) go in the area under the bus accessed from an open door outside. I used the bus company Alsa for my main journey Burgos to Leon, and found the website easy to use with Google translate. It gave me a QR code which I can show to the driver on entry and guarantees me a named seat. The booking kiosk in the bus station in Burgos closed at 2.30pm so I didn’t get there in time. You have to wear a mask on a bus, and you cannot eat.

The Spanish are really friendly and really appreciate a “hola” or “buenos dias” when passing by. I really wish I had made more effort with the language before I left, for example how to ask for my sandwich “hot” etc. I have found they will often go out of their way to help you, such as the neighbour who helped me with the codes to get into my hotel room, or the elderly man who walked me to the bus station.

The Spanish like to eat late. Dinner is most often at 9pm. If you are staying in an albergue doors often close at 10pm, with lights out, so this may be too late for you. Community albergue pilgrim meals are often hit and miss, I’ve had excellent and awful, but they are a good way to meet fellow pilgrims. If you are hungry and see food, then eat. Don’t wait for later, they may have stopped serving for siesta or there may not be another cafe for 6 miles!

Poles! I could not have done any of this without hiking poles.They have helped me on the uphills, the downhills and the flat. The only places I haven’t used them is in the cities. Work out how they stow onto your rucksack before you leave!

Do not underestimate the amount of time you will need to get sorted in the evenings and the mornings. I have now got it down to 45 minutes from awake to out the door, and that’s without showering. No one showers in the mornings, they shower after their walk. You will spend precious time loading your rucksack, then unloading it because you forgot something. Don’t fight it, just accept it. I made it easier for myself by having different colour dry bags for different things; eg blue for clothes, orange for socks and foot care, yellow for sleeping stuff etc.

Consider taking a large sarong. Mine has been my towel, sheet, blanket, scarf, privacy curtain, bag to hold wet washing, skirt, shower cover up and comfort blanket!!

Don’t underestimate how long you will spend planning your stages. Let go of the Brierley stages if you need to, the bed fight is often worse there, and they were too aggressive mileage wise for me. I spent ages every night looking at apps, working out how far I wanted to walk, then checking the elevation (12 miles on the flat is easier for me than 7 miles uphill), followed by the accommodation at the end. Consider how far the accommodation you choose is from the path. It nearly killed me in Zubiri when I had to walk an extra 7 minutes to my albergue. Also consider if your stage has shade. I had to leave in the dark to avoid the sun when my stages didn’t. Also remember the guidebooks lie. I got caught out on the Zubiri day, expecting to be there 2 miles before I was. It killed me mentally.

Consider hydration. Can you get at your water supply easily? Some people use bladders, I had 2 bottles in my waist pack side pockets. Read up so you know if there are cafes/fountains on your stage. Consider electrolytes. Some people have tablets you add to the water. I had chewable sweets. I also discovered drinking Aquarius at cafes helped.

You will have a rollercoaster of emotions. You will have the highest of highs and the lowest of lows. When you are low talk about how you are feeling. Don’t feel a failure and bottle it up. Chances are others are feeling it too, so you won’t feel so alone. Others were there for me just when I needed it, especially Julie & Dom. They appeared like genies when I needed them, in the awful albergue in Puente La Reine, and in Maneru. So much love for them both!

Don’t forget to stop and take in the view. I felt on such a high when I reached the top of the Pyrenees. I put those images in the memory bank. Conversely, the miles I did in the dark I have no knowledge of the scenery, which seems a real waste, but it was that or dehydrate and wilt in the heat at the side of the path. Look back and see how far you have come too.

Don’t forget, you are having an adventure. Things will go wrong. You will adapt. It is all an experience, and you will look back at this trip and will wonder how you did it, and feel proud of how you coped, the people you met and the lessons you learnt. It is your Camino and it will only ever be yours. Others can share it, but it is yours alone to live.

Any questions or comments, leave a reply in the blog and I’ll get back to you. Hope this helps.

Today has been one of those frustrating days where plans had to be changed. My intention had been to walk from Navarrete to Najera and get a bus from Najera to Burgos.

I have been having part of my bag transferred each day to lighten the load, so I still carry my big rucksack, with my sandals, feet kit, snacks, base layers, rain gear, first aid etc, but send my clothes, sleeping kit & toiletries ahead. Before I started the Camino I had no intention of doing this, but the reality of carrying my heavy pack up the hill to the pilgrims office in St Jean on the first day, and the incredulity of the rest of my dorm mates that I was actually going to carry it all, resulted in me sending ahead. To be honest I had no idea that this was such a popular thing as it is. I would say the vast majority of people I know on the Camino send all or some of their pack ahead. It has certainly saved my back. Anyway, when I messaged my usual guy to arrange my small pack be taken to Burgos, he replied with the fact that this would cost 20E instead of the usual 5E, and couldn’t be done until Friday. Wow, that was something I hadn’t foreseen!

I made the decision not to carry my full pack for the 11 miles, and decided I would get a bus to Najera to get another bus to Burgos. The problem with this was that the bus was not until mid day, and I had to be out of my room at 8am!

I went to my favourite cafe, with my full, heavy pack, and got a drink. I wondered how I could spin this out for 5 hours. I wandered to the nearby tourist information place nearby to see if they could help me get a taxi.They opened at 9.30. I Google mapped taxis and followed the directions, to find no taxis. I waited outside the tourist info place till gone 9.30, no one appeared. Time was passing very slowly!!

I spotted a taxi, and ran after it. The driver called another one for me, and 25E later I was in Najera. I would have spent that money in the cafe anyway in 5 hours! This was better for my diet!

I got out of the taxi but he bus station and deciphered the time tables using Google translate. I spotted another female pilgrim sitting on a bench and asked if she spoke English. Relieved she called me over. We had pretty much identical stories of heat exhaust, no sleep, no eating etc, but she had a pulled muscle as well, and was bussing ahead to Burgos. We went for a coffee nearby, and then returned to our bench to await our bus. Today has involved a lot of waiting.

The bus came at 12.15, and we paid a ridiculous 6E to be driven 2 hours; so cheap. We were soon in Burgos, and I made my way to my hotel. I showered and washed my clothes, then had a siesta before going out to visit the incredible cathedral and have pizza.

I have another full day here tomorrow to explore this bustling city, and to work out my plans for next week. So far this evening I have booked 4 nights accommodation for after Leon. It is frightening how difficult this is; how many places are booked up, and how expensive the rooms are. I think the fact that this is the busiest the Camino has ever been is making a real difference in finding accommodation. It’s quite stressful.

My photos won’t upload tonight, so I’ll add them to tomorrow’s blog.

And just who is this bright, shiny, happy person sitting here in a cafe, under the shade of the huge church tower? Yes, I think it might actually be me, although I’m too scared to examine any closer!

This is me having a good day. A very good day in fact, in stark contrast to the very bad days that have preceded it. I will be the first to say it; my husband and daughter are wise ones indeed.They gave me the encouragement I needed to stick it out, and not go hot tailing back home, and for today, at least, it has paid out.

I woke before 7am, and got ready to walk, safe in the knowledge it was under 8 miles, so no need to get up at the crack of stupid o’clock to walk solo in the dark. I began to walk at about 7.45, a much more respectable time, and followed the well placed markers out of Logrono.

The path was my sort of path, once it left the streets filled with harassed office workers. It became a wide path filled with walkers, joggers and cyclists. Even better, it was a flat path; the Holy Grail of paths. We wound our way through a huge park, with a massive lake. Knowing I had less miles to do meant I could take my time and actually look around me.I sat on a bench to watch the squirrels play.I examined the strange leaves on a tree that looked like bananas, and watched the massive fish in the lake.

In the park I came across a donativo hut with supplies for pilgrims. It is the work of the infamous Marcelino de Lobato de Castrillo. He is a “celebrity” veteran pilgrim who has been walking the Way since 1972, when he slept in hay stacks and fields as there were no albergues. He walks the Way dressed in the traditional clothes of the concheiro ( staff, tunic, bag, horn, cape and rosary). He was dressed more normally today, although his Gandalf beard hinted at his colourful style, and photos of him walking surrounded his hut. We had an intense conversation, although I speak no Spanish and he speaks no English. The only word I could decipher was amore, which is love, and I think that was the most important one. He gave me a huge hug, and a big kiss, and then another squeeze for luck. I love the photo of us together. It is one that will make me smile every time I look at it.

Once out of the park there was a moderate rise, and it started to get hotter, with little shade. I passed a huge link fence filled with crosses made from twigs. I was able to look back across the lake at the high rises of Logrono.

Before too long I could see Navarrete. It is a hilltop town. Of course it is! What’s better than going up at the end of your journey, no matter how short the miles are. The big church dominates the town. I was looking forward to seeing inside, but first I had to walk past many vineyards, the vines heavy with dark grapes. I couldn’t resist taking a bunch. They were so sweet. I don’t like the wine, just give it to me neat. Soon I had a sticky chin and sticky hands.

I climbed up into the town, heading for the church. On the way in I passed the ruins of the 12th century Hospitale San Juan de Acre, the medieval pilgrim hospital. I carried on going up towards the church. Right next to it was a fabulous little cafe. I made a beeline for it, ready for a drink. It was like going to a school reunion. I sat with Debs and Maria who were in my dorm in Orisson the very first night. Then Charles and Mimi came in. Then, I jumped up to hug lovely Luna, who had walked in with Laurel and Anne. They had noticed my name in the guest book at the marcelino’s hut and had asked him when I had gone through.He had no idea who “Lucy, Wales” was, but was able to answer them excitedly when they asked about the “red head!”

It was so lovely to catch up with people.This is the bit I am loving the most about the Camino; the shared experiences that bond us.

The others left for the next village, but I had a room booked in Navarrete as I wanted to see the church. The Inglesis de Nuestra Senira de La Asuncion is very special. It is beautiful inside. It can, at first appear dark and uninspiring. But, there is a trick! Pop an euro in a box and the altar piece is illuminated. Wow, just wow. When it lit up, another female pilgrim looked open mouthed over to me, and we both just held out our arms in disbelief. The altar piece is huge, and gold. Very very gold. Ornate beyond words. You could spend a week looking at it, and still notice a new cherub, a new statue. It is very hard to describe the impact of it.

I headed off to fine my albergue and did my now ritual of showering, washing clothes and napping. I have headed out to find something to eat, but it is too early for the Spaniards! I have managed to eat a bit of pizza today, which is. A big improvement on yesterday, where I only ate a croissant all day. I am starting to feel a bit hungry again, which is great news. Can’t believe I am saying that!

So, all in all, a very good day! Being more rested from taking a break, and doing less mileage meant I have had more time to see, more time to explore, more time to chat and more time to notice. A huge improvement on simply laying on my bed exhausted, after seeing nothing because I walked in the dark. I have. Or mileage to do tomorrow, followed by a bus journey, so I met start off a bit earlier, but all shall be well, all shall be well, and all matter of things shall be well.

Oh, and I must thank you for all the lovely comments posted on my blog. I made the promise to be honest and real, and I am glad that people seem to appreciate it. I love reading them all, they make my day!